Grime Darkness – 40K on the horizon?

Warhammer 40,000 – Having dodged the bullet and sold off my Chaos Marine stuff prior to temptation seducing me into buying giant metal dragons and deformed gun beasts, I didn't expect to be playing 40K anytime soon. I still have my Space Marine army and Slaanesh Daemons that are still in need of some painting love. With the marines I have enough units completed to field a fully painted list, not necessarily the units I want to run but a functional army non-the-less. 

Recently my good friend called me up out of the blue and asked how much to paint a Space Marine army. I was pretty shocked by the request as he had sworn off any army scale mini games a while back and has stuck by it. Then I remembered he had picked up a Marine force for the Badab campaign I tried running after Forge World released the campaign books. Initially he had planned on painting them himself as Salamanders and during the process he remembered he hates painting.

As such I now have several custom built drop pods, and a unit of ten terminators on my painting table. Since paying customers always come first some of my projects are going to be taking a back seat while I finish this up for him. Luckily he just wants a tabletop standard finish so I won't be slaving away at these for long. (He's also happy with how he assembled them so I won't be cleaning any mold lines or assembling anything, since he wants this on the cheap.)

I'm pretty sure once he has his force painted up he's going to want to play some games. And while I'm in the grime dark mindset I might need to finish up some of my own units. Storm Raven I'm looking at you ... (as well as considering a Storm Talon ... sigh)

Black Library - Thoughts on Campaign Books

Warhammer 40,000 – My heyday for 40K was in the early 2000's. At that time it seemed like the hobby was huge in my area with worldwide campaigns, weekly tournaments, convention support you name it. It was a glorious time to be playing Warhammer 40K. 

During that time period Black Library was really just coming into it's own and was publishing art books and background books. Among these were the Battle for Armageddon and the 13th Black Crusade. Each of these books took the results of their respective worldwide campaigns and detailed them out into a comprehensive history of the phases of the campaign. 

While these are not quite as detailed as the Forge World books that came after them they were top of the line during that time period. As a precursor to the Imperial Armour books they do share numerous similarities such as the system overview pages, a brief out line of major conflicts and supplemental art showing modifications to standard kit that happened over the course of the campaign. The only thing the Black Library versions lack are army lists, which to be fair are published in the regular codexes at the time as they are "modern" conflicts.

If you'd like to pick up your own copy of either of these books click here.

On the Painting Table ... Super Dungeon Explore

Super Dungeon Explore – After going through the tedious process of assembling all the models for Super Dungeon Explore. I started the massive task of painting up the models. I decided to start with the heroes as they are the most important part of the game so it helps to get some color on them so they stand out on the table.

Before I began painting them I used some greenstuff to raise some of the stones on the premolded bases provided in the box. This helped to hide the the gaps were the model tabs fit into the base and help to blend in the models that are on raised platforms. 

After priming them I used some foundation paint to block out the basic color scheme for each model. After finishing this I realized I don't own enough bright colors of paint. Off to the store...

Liber Chaotica - A look back at rare books

Warhammer - Back in 2003 Black Library released a set of four books each featuring a specific chaos god. At the time I couldn't resist the lure of chaos in all its myriad of forms and picked them up as soon as they released. Which turned out to be very wise of me as the books were not printed in a huge quantity and quickly sold out. Eventually they did reprint all four books collected into one large special edition. This also quickly sold out and is very hard to find.

Since a new and improved chaos codex was recently released I thought this would be a good time to look back at these books.

Each of the four volumes was released as a beautiful soft cover with a spot varnish and soft touch UV coating on the cover. The results are quite striking and make these books stand out from the typical GW book of the period.

Within the pages you'll find the writings of Marijan von Staufer detailing his extensive research into the gods of Chaos. The pages are set up like a journal with writings in the margins and sketches of the various daemonic entities. I really enjoyed reading through these and the sketches provided numerous ideas for conversions.

Games Workshop and the Black Library haven't put out books of this quality in a long time and it would be great to see them bring back this format as the books were very popular and still are on the secondary market when you can find them. Luckily if you've been looking for a complete set of these books you can find them here.

Brown Black really? – Step by Step Library Board (Part Four)

Relic Knights – Continuing my progress on this library board I've gotten some of my bookshelves assembled and smoothed out. Gluing them together I ran into some issues with gaps and shelves that are slightly different heights. I used some Dap spackle to fill these in.

After sanding them smooth, it time to paint. I found a dark brown satin finish spray paint to do the base coat. I have this crazy idea that the book shelves should be the same color as the Ikea book shelves I have in my game room. The problem I have is: What color is black brown exactly? It's not really a color at all at first glimpse it seems like I could take in in and have it color matched at Home Depot, unfortunately the effect seems to be from layering two colors so you get hints of brown when the light shines on it.

My solution was to spray them with a dark satin brown and then apply dark walnut acyclic wood stain. This did my basic shading for me and brought the color closer to what I was looking for. I'll tweak it more as I move into the detail painting of the shelves.

With the sections I've base coated so far I have a pretty decent area of the board covered and once I add in some statuary I think it will start to look more like what I've envisioned in my head.

What a Big Box You Have - Super Dungeon Explore

Super Dungeon Explore – So I broke down and ordered Super Dungeon Explore, I was able to find a 2nd printing for $68 on ebay which seemed like a really good price. I haven't had a chance to play it yet but first impressions are favorable.

The box is huge and contains everything you need to play. With the second printing the printing issues from the first run were corrected. From what I've read online the first run of the game has the tokens all miscut, that's not the case with the box I picked up.

I had read that the card quality was improved in the second run as well, however if that's the case I'd hate to see what they were with the first run. I need to pick up some dragon shields to protect these as there's no way they'd hold up for more then a dozen or so games before being damaged.

The rule book is printed on a pretty light weight stock which is slightly annoying given how nice the printing is. If they would have went with a 80# cover stock instead of what feels like 60# text the book would feel more substantial and hold up better over time. Minor grip I know but skimping on paper stock is one of my pet peeves.

The tokens and boards are printed on a decent quality card. Nothing high end here but given most people who really get into the game build 3D tiles it's understandable. Again a minor grip, but something that should be taken into account.

With this run instructions are included for assembling the miniatures. Big improvement as most of these models are in several pieces that look similar. The minis are all really cool looking and of a high quality, which is really the draw of this game they make up for where the other components are lacking.

The rules are a little confusing on the first read through but after a second look they make sense are should be easy to teach players unfamiliar with the concept. I really like the mechanics and special dice. Not having played it yet it seems like the game with go fast and the increasing toughness of the spawned monsters is fun. I hope with future releases they include some alternate scenarios as the smash and grab style of the game is fun and quick but I don't think it takes full advantage of the property. 

Once I get these models assembled I'll post up a post play review. But my initial impressions with the box are really positive. 

Dinosaur Skeletons - A Quick Review

Random – So I needed a dinosaur skeleton for the library board I've been working on and didn't want to spend a fortune on a model. It's surprisingly hard to find a decent looking small scale skeleton model. I assumed I could just walk into a model store and grab one off the shelf. No such luck.

I did however find this Revel Cub Scout activity kit that looked like the final skeleton would be the right size. The catch of course was that it needed to be excavated. I figured this could be a fun activity for my daughter, and brought it home. She was immediately thrilled at the prospect of excavating a dinosaur and got right to work on this "novel idea."

After an hour and a half she had freed a single leg, and decided this wasn't a fun project after all. So I picked up the tiny hammer and chisel and got to work. It was entertaining for about 15 minutes. The tedious nature of the project should earn you merit badges by the boatload. If the creators of this activity intended to scare off any kids that think being an archeologist is all Indian Jones and Jurassic Park fun they succeeded. It's so repetitive and boring, just like the real thing I suppose.

Since I didn't really care about the activity I took the chunk of plaster into the garage and dropped it on the floor. This split the plaster into 4 smaller chunks. A few whacks with a rubber mallet turned the plaster to dust and I was able to retrieve my T-rex.

The model itself is easy to put together and looks pretty good next to my miniatures. I need to dig out the plaster remnants so it snaps together and then I can mount it to a plaque so it looks like Sue from the Field Museum.

 

Librarians vs. Pirates – Is it May yet?

Relic Knights – I was able to get in a second game of Relic Knights using my ghetto proxy set. This time around we played a 50 point game and had Esper Wells as the scenario. Essentially Esper wells is a capture the flag style scenario. There are 5 wells on the board and you have to run a model over to them spend your action to turn it your color. Pretty straight forward.

I took Kisa and Scratch, 2 Noviates and a Librarian to face off against Calico Kate, Squall, a broadside and some pirates. I was bummed to not have anything to spend my last 3 points on I guess Malifaux's Soulstone Pool has spoiled me in the regard. I think it'd be cool if you received held esper for points not spent, but I have a feeling it would break the game.

We finished the game in just under 45 min which is pretty amazing, after so many long drawn out games of other systems it's refreshing to be able to play a fast game and potentially get more in during game night.

After playing Doctrine I really like their mechanics pushing models out of ready is pretty tricky and requires some prior thought when setting up your que. I forgot that the Noviates have coordinated fire which means they didn't do as much damage as they should have. Kate's abilities seem to revolve around blowing stuff up and pushing models around so there was lots of models getting bashed into the crystal towers.

I'm still loving the Beta Rules for this game and I hope very little changes. On the Sodapop forums there is a lot of whining that their need to be squad rules but I'm not seeing it. Having low power scrubs acting alone is helpful to capture objects and run interference. Since this is a true skirmish game I would HATE to see it fall into units like Warmahordes.

Shelved - Step by Step Library Board (Part Three)

Relic Knights – With the basic board done it's time to populate it with terrain elements. I sat down and did some sketching to plan out what it is this board will need to feel like a library/school. Usually I don't really sketch anything when I'm building terrain as I like to play it by ear and build what I see looking at the parts I have to work with.

While that system has worked well for me in the past it also have some drawbacks, namely not having a solid plan means some projects just go on forever. I've also run into the problem of playing it by ear and having a piece that looks great but is impossible to store. 

After doing some thinking I decided that I will need several elements to make this board look and feel like a library. I also came up with some optional elements to make it feel more like a school, anytime a board can pull double duty with minor tweaks you should include that in your planning.

BOOKSHELVES – I decided the primary terrain element for this board is going to be various bookshelves. To make the best use of my time I decided on several configurations that could be easily repositioned to create a new layout and were small enough to be easily stored. I settled on a single-stack L shape, a double-stack L shape, a single stack S shape and a few straight sections.

STAIRS - I'm still looking for some inspiration on these. My first thought was to use wooden balls and build the stairs going around them. I think that could look mystical and cool, but I'm afraid they won't have enough height. I've been looking at using a tube and ringing the steps around that to give some more height and provide someplace for snipers to nest. 

STATUES - I need to find some cheap Egyptian style statues. I see this more as a library/museum of mystical power and history so incorporating some statues and other relic type items will give more scatter terrain and add a bit more character to the table. While the bookshelves I found are really cool a table of nothing but bookshelf is going to feel like a simple dungeon.

ARCHES - To help give the feel of being in a massive structure I'm considering building some arches. These will provide some more interest areas as well as some minor cover for long hallways. I'm not 100% sold on the idea yet but will  probably at least build one to see how it looks.

Here's the optional stuff. To try and get more life out of this board I'm considering adding some school elements.

DORMITORY - Essentially the idea would be to create some rooms (or walls) that can divide up sections of the board into rooms (essentially buildings on something this big). I have some beds that will make a good dorm room, they're just over 1" high so it will be a bunch of light cover in a small area that could be interesting.

LOCKER ROOM - I'm not sure about this one. On one hand I think it could be fun to build on the other I don't know how functional it will be in game terms. I'm going to revisit my sketches before I try to build anything.

BOILER ROOM - This will be easy a room full of pipes and techy looking things. Gives me the chance to pull in some additional sci-fi elements and add some grime to the table. I'm not sure it's necessary yet but as an option I like it.

STAGE - Most schools have stages for presentations and talent shows. If I build one this could potentially serve double duty as the Star Theater for Malifaux. Not sold on it yet but we'll see.

Tear Down the Walls - Relic Knights First Game

Relic Knights – I took my ghetto fabulous paper proxies out for a test drive last week and got in a really quick demo game of Relic Knights using the Beta Rules

First thing I didn't realize when setting up the game how imbalanced the starter sets are. When I made my proxies I did pogs for each of the models indicated in the starter set. Apparently that doesn't accurately translate into point costs in game (note to self reading is fundamental and math is hard). So take this with a grain of salt.

For the game we set up the Black Diamond Starter against the Cerci Speed Circuit Starter. Upon flipping the mission we had to play Tear Down the Walls with me as the attacker. What happened next is humorous when you realize that the Black Diamond has almost double the points as the Speed Circuit.

We deploy using the rules in the book so my opponent place a model then I place a model at least 9" away and repeat until everything is deployed. I set up my models so they can all see the objective from their starting positions. In my dash board I have Trooper, Trooper, One-shot, Trooper. My first activation I have zero purple cards so I discard my hand to gain esper on the trooper. My opponent zooms in a bashes a trooper which draws me cards.

Now having a mitt full of purple I activate my second trooper and shoot the objective. Because of One-shot's cadre ability I do 10 points of damage to the objective (only 40 more to go). When One-shot activates she does a super shot which is 13 point of damage. I wind up just rotating the troopers and One-shot in my dashboard destroying the objective after 6 activations. 

My impressions are this game is crazy fun. The starter boxes have a huge disparity in points per box. Once the game comes out you're not going to be able to fairly run starter box events, which is a bit of a bummer but good to know before people are spending their cash on models.

Second Terrain placement is huge you really can't leave any clear firing lanes to the center objectives otherwise a ranged list just owns this mission. (Which I guess makes sense if you consider it to be a siege)

I'm looking forward to playing another game of this with the points balanced out properly.

 

Faux Pas - Step by Step Library Board (Part Two)

Relic Knights – Part two of my guide to building a Doctrine Library board is dealing with faux finishes. I want my tile to look like marble specifically a white and purple checkerboard pattern. In order to accomplish this I need to refer back to the painting lessons I taught at Home Depot while I was in college.

To make a fake marble pattern you need 3 colors of paint, a sponge and a feather (or in this case small brush) if you want to vein the marble. 

Before you begin it's important to prime the board before you paint. I usually use a water based primer or a paint and primer all in one. Since I had a 2 gallon bucket of water based Kilz lying around I decided to use that first. When putting down your primer be sure to put a smooth even coat down and get into the grooves you carved previously. It you don't properly cover the foam you'll run into issues if you choose use any aerosol paint on the board.

After the primer has dried its time to paint. I'm going to start with the white tiles and paint the full board before going back to paint the purple tiles. 

To easily get a marbling effect you take your three colors and put down a heavy stroke of each. Then take you sponge (or blending tool) and blend the color together. When done properly you should get a transition that resembles the large veins in marble. While this is still wet take your brush or feather and drag it across with you accent color to add the thin veins in the marble. I'm using a metallic gold.

Depending on the effect you want you could just stop now and have a marble floor. I would suggest at least doing a wash once it's dry to bring out the lines, essentially you're creating the grout lines. For me I want a checkerboard look so I need to paint the purple.

For the purple I want it to look like a different material so I'm not doing a marble effect. Instead I'm going to paint it in a jewel tone almost like amethyst. 

More Closet Cleaning - ebay Away

Miscellaneous – I'm still working on getting my game room back into proper shape. As of late I've spent most of my gaming nights up at Gamer's Gauntlet trying to get the Malifaux community up and running. Which means little motivation to clean up my gaming space as I'm not expecting company. As winter approaches I don't know how much I'm going to want to haul terrain and what-not out to the store in the snow and cold so I need to get the game room back in order.

I was recently fairly successful in cleaning out my mini cabinets so I think it's time to focus on the bookshelves. Honestly when I did the gameroom remodel a good portion of the shelving units I picked up were to house a sizable collection of White Dwarf Magazines, No Quarter, RPG books and novels. After almost two years I've come to the realization that I NEVER reference any of this material. The White Dwarf Magazines span back to the time when there was actual content and really for me once I've read modeling articles they pretty much stick with me so I think it's time to part with some more of this stuff.

My wife also has a section of the shelving that she uses to store here books and I'm trying to convince her to let me sell off some of the books because honestly after you're read a book once or twice and or loaned it out what are you really going to do with it other than store it. So you may or may not see some random stuff pop up on my ebay page. Fear not you're still in the right place.

Let's Learn – Step by Step Library Board (Part One)

Relic Knights – I'm super excited about the upcoming release of Relic Knights and while the game isn't slated for release until May 2013, I decided to get a jump on building a table for it. I've had a bunch of bookshelves that I picked up to detail the interior of some of my buildings sitting around for what seems like forever. At some point I gave up on detailing out each building because the details limited movement with the building to much. 

From past experience large buildings look cool on the board but they pose issues with storage. This time around I decided to use the system I did for the sewer board to create the shelf walls. Also taking what I learned from cutting out all those bricks with the sewer board and the huge time sink that became I decided to carve the tiles directly into the foam base. 

Materials Needed:

(4) 1"x4"x48" boards

(2) 1/4" dowel rods

(4) small corner braces

(1) 4'x8' sheet of 2.5" insulation foam

Wood Glue

Painters Caulk

Razor Knife 

Step One: Carving the foam is easier when it's not attached to the wood frame. I measured out a 36"x36" square and carefully cut the foam to size. When cutting sheets of foam it's best to score it deeply and then gently apply pressure until it pops apart. After it's cut to size measure and mark the board every 1.5" repeat until you have a checkerboard drawn over the entire board.

Next you'll take a razor knife and hold it at a 45° angle and cut along one side of the line you carved. Repeat for the second side of the line. The goal is to create a v-shaped bevel along the grid. Continue until the entire board is carved with tiles.

Step Two: Building the frame is pretty simple. First measure (2) of your boards to 36" and cut them down. For the other (2) board you'll need to measure how thick your boards are. Even though the sign at Home Depot said the boards were 1"x4"X48" that is not really true. Much like the weight of a quarter pounder before cooking the boards shrink. Mine are about 3/4" of and inch thick, which means I need to cut my other boards to 37.5" long. 

At this point I then measure out an are 2.5" wide in the center of my boards to account for the space the foam will occupy. Install the corner braces in the middle of that space. Once you've completed this you should have a square frame the has 36"x36" interior dimensions.

Step Three: To install the foam in the frame you'll want to gently push down on the foam until it pops into place. Align the top of your foam with the guidelines you created in Step Two. Now that your foam is level and center in the frame you need to create some support so it won't break when it is leaned on. Take your dowel rods and cut them into 5"-6" sections. Then put a 1/4" drill bit on your drill and drill (3) equally spaced holes along the edge of your board. 

Take your wood glue and slather it along the dowel rod, then insert the rod into the hole you just drilled. Tap it down with a hammer until it is flush with the edge of your board. Repeat until the board is pegged on all sides. This give a nice level of support and hold the board together. I've also added 2 finishing nails in each corner for extra support.

Step Four: This part may or may not be necessary. I prefer to do it as it adds another level of bond between the frame and the foam as well as creates a water tight barrier along the edge of the board. (I tend to do lots of water effect so I err on the side of caution. Take your painters caulk and run a bead along the edge of the board between the foam and wood frame. Then with a wet finger or sponge smooth out the bead so it is flush and fills the gaps. Repeat on the other edges of the board. After this side dries, flip the board over and repeat.

Step Five: Depending on how good of a wood cutter you are you may or may not need to fill the gaps with wood filler. I'm far from awesome at cutting wood (partially because I don't have a table saw) so I have gaps to fill. I also need to fill the dowel holes. Once the wood filler (or bondo if you prefer) has dried you need to sand it smooth. During this process you may want to round the lip of your board slightly to make it more comfortable to rest your arms on the edge.

Step Six: Details, since I'm making this board specifically for Relic Knights I want to do something to the frame to make it stand out. I found this drywall tape that looks like an after market vent grill or something. I used this on a spaceship deck before, this time I've used glue to wrap the edges of the board with this texture  to give it a bit more of a scify feel.

NEW White Dwarf - Is it worth reading?

Review – To much fanfare and hype Games Workshop has revamped White Dwarf to a new format, new staff and new content. The cover hints at going back to its roots a monthly magazine that provided new rules, hobby tips and inspirational articles. Is that truely the case or is this just a new look for the same crap? I'm going to review this on three key points the look, the content and the value.

The Look: I do have to say the new format is impressive looking nice heavy paper, with spot UV varnish and giant sized photographs of models in all their glory, oh and don't forget the gate folds it seems that someone in their art department has just realized you can add them to books because they're showing up everywhere. Just flipping through their are tons of photos and detail shots showing off each new model with a small blurb about them. Purely based on looks this is a four star publication (not quite five as some of the shots in the battle reports are grainy and blurry)

The Content: With the shiny new coat of paint what's under the hood? Well unfortunately not as much as you would think. At it's core White Dwarf is still a catalog showing off GW's various IPs. The first half of the book is all about new stuff you can buy. Completely focused on the new Chaos Marine stuff, the presentation is better and you get a bit more info about each release but after the third or fourth time reading "and with Finecast your get to see Jess Godwin's original in it's crisp glory" you realize there's a lot more words with very little content.

Once you get past the obvious advertisements there's the "editorial"sections with a battle report, opt-ed piece and some army showcases. Then there is a hobby section that shows you some kitbashed Ork Bombmas, a Realms of Battle Board with a cool theme that uses a dozen or so Bastions and other kits and a brief paint scheme guide.

One thing I'm happy to see is the addition of Forgeworld, Fantasy Flight and Black Library content. While yes these are essentially just more ads for upcoming product it's nice to see some hype building for these aspects of the brand. The Horus Heresy section is really great and I'd be lying if I wasn't looking forward to the releases and considering saving up (or taking out a second mortgage) to pick up the books and models.

If you're looking into picking up the new chaos book this month and starting a new army you can find some great deals here.

 

Movie Review - Dredd 3D

Review – Over the weekend I was able to get out and see Dredd 3D. I have to say I was impressed, this movie was nothing like the laughable 1995 Stalone movie. Instead it felt just like the 2000 AD comics I remember as a kid, super violent and bloody. (I ususually hate 3D movies but this one used the blood splatter and slow-mo bullet shots to such great effect I didn't feel ripped off after dropping $13 on a ticket and another $6 for a drink. 

For those who don't know the background, Judge Dredd takes place in Mega City One, a vaste walled in metropolis consisting of most of the eastern seaboard. Within the walled city are huge mega towers that house upwards of 750,000 people each, these jut out of the runned down and ruined expanses of the old city. Outside the walls is a irradiated wasteland. The original character was created in the late 70's so the idea of a nuclear holocaust was very much top of mind for many readers. Judge Dredd is also the inspiration for Necromunda and the Adeptus Arbites. 

Dredd 3D has a simple plot lawmen go in for a bust, shit hits the fan, good guys win. Much like any gritty crime movie they all follow the same forumla. Which is really what Dredd is all about, no super crazy plots to destroy the world, takeover or what not, just a bad ass cop doing his job.

The visuals of this film are stunning, it's everything I imagine a near future dystopian society to be. No ground breaking hover cars or other craziness just people grinding away at their miserable daily lives. 

After seeing this I'm seriously considering the Kickstarter from Mongoose or at the very least digging out some Necromunda figures to play some games. 

 

Picky about Plastic

Malifaux – Having had a little spare time this week I busted out my Hanging Trees and Miss Terious models to put them together. While my initial impression wasn't love at first sight working with the plastics turned out to be a fairly enjoyable experience. The plastic is harder then the GW stuff so having a fresh Xacto blade is key to cleaning them up. And while it is much harder there are still a ton of fragile parts particularly on the Hanging Trees. One nitpicky thing that bugged me is the lack of instructions, the Hanging Trees have quite a few pieces and while it's easy enough to figure out where things line up I still had an extra branch piece that I couldn't figure out where to glue it on. The main trunk also fits so tight I had a difficult time getting it to fit into the slot. Which means there's a nasty gap that needs to be filled.

Miss Terious was a more difficult assembly, the parts are very small and gluing them together was and exercise in frustration until the glue reacted with the plastic, after that it held like a dream. If you decide to use a scenic base there's no good place to pin her to the base as her feet are tiny. I wound up using gorilla glue to mount her to the base and then attached her to the coffin in a few spots before gluing that to the base as well. The model is pretty amazing looking by itself, however standing next to the existing metals she looks small. I appreciate the realistic proportions Wyrd tries to maintain how ever the face on this model is so tiny It's going to be a challenge to paint. 

Having assembled the models I can appreciate them as stand alone pieces. However when compared to the existing line they look very different so much so that then almost seem to be from a completely different range. The trees were a bit of a let down, they look great but the hype around their release implied a bunch of extras on the sprues which wasn't the case, you get two birds per tree which are needed on each tree to add interest areas to the top branches.

Next step is to get some paint on them and see how well they blend in then.

On the Painting Table ... Nuclear Winter

MERCS – In and effort to complete my collection I've started painting a Kezi-Waza force. I really like the look of the models and can't wait to get them on the table. After opening the box I was disappointed to see I was missing some parts. The leader's missle wasn't in the box. I've contacted Brian at mercsminis and he assured me they'd get the part right out to me. While I patiently wait for that to arrive I got to work assembling the rest of the team. 

First thing I noticed is these are particularly fiddly to put together the arms didn't seem to match up as nicely as the other MERCS models I've assembled. After a bit of pinning they fit together pretty much as pictured on the box. There is a nasty gap with the cloaked sniper head that I need to fill with greenstuff and the Heavy Hybrid wouldn't hold his gun with both hands no matter how I tried to position the arms. Eventually I got it to stick with only a slightly noticable gap behind the arm. I mounted these to my urban base set and am happy with how they look. 

After priming them with a dark grey primer I went to work painting the armor plates. I opted for the "official" orange scheme to match the dice that came in the box. The fabric is a nice khaki brown. 

Kickstarter - Bad for Business?

Editorial – Having seen and/or participated in numerous Kickstarter campaigns recently I've found them to be fun, good bargains for many games. However, out in the blogosphere there seems to be a growing amount of grumbling that "established companies" are using it to get "free loans" and or free marketing etc. I can understand the grumbling however I don't really agree with attacking companies for taking advantage of a funding source that guarantees sales of a upcoming product.

How many games come out each year 100s, 1000s? How many of them do you hear about after the initial buzz and launch 10s, 20s? Investing in creating a new game is a risky venture for any small business even large companies can suffer from releasing a stinker or a product the market isn't ready for yet. To use Kickstarter or other crowd funding sites as a gauge of interest and potential sales makes sense. It takes some of the risk out of the process and allows companies to potentially improve on quality because they're sure of the initial sales. 

For gamers that decide to back a project on Kickstarter they're making an investment in fun. Hopefully the projects they back will turn out as expected and become part of their stable of games. However like any investment there's a risk. What if the game sucks, what if the final product isn't what you were expecting or worse what if nobody will play it with you. Suddenly your great deal turns into a money sink that you'll ebay for a fraction of the cost.

The flip side of course is the game takes off and succeeds, you have a ton of special edition stuff that will rise in value because of its limited nature. Or you got a great deal on a ton of extras and don't need to purchase anything else for this cool new game that you helped get produced.

That not needing to purchase anything else leads to the title of this post. Kickstarter is great for the game companies trying to publish and produce product. But what about their retail partners?

In the internet age we've already seen a drastic decline in Friendly Local Game Stores. The overhead costs of running a brick and mortar location make it difficult to compete with online liquidators that can afford to see things for a fraction the MSRP. Gamer's love to have a place to hang out and play their games but many of them run to the internet to get a better price, essentially leaving the FLGS hanging in the wind. (I'm a firm believer in spending money where you play, sure you might not get the best deal but if you have a place to gather and play games you owe it to that store owner to support his/her business).

Enter Kickstarter, the internet is buzzing with the latest project with all the crazy stretch goals and 300% funding. Holy crap this is going to be the next big thing! The hype machine reves up, local store owners take note and plan to order when the game is released, because it should sell like hotcakes right?

Not necessarily. Hugely successful Kickstarters seem to consist of the same early adopters jumping into a new game based on the shininess of it and or innovative mechanics etc. Many of the core customers at most shops have no idea what the new hotness is or care. The demographic of customers that will buy new and shiny most likely backed the project and got a ton of stuff so they don't need to buy anything else for quite a while.

That leaves the FLGS sitting with a bunch of product that won't move until those early adopters grow the interest in the community to play their shiny new game. If they can't grow that community their copies are bound for ebay or the shelf and the game sits on the shelf until Christmas sales come around and the owner needs to free up space so they discount it to move.

Of course this if the doom and gloom view of the process which unfortunately 90% of the games that come out are destined for. The cycle changes from area to area and so long as their is some popularity systems will continue to thrive. 

Time will tell if Kickstarter is a good or bad thing, but for me I think I'm done with it. The bandwagons and rush to produce things now that companies have found a fountain of free money is resulting in a glut of games that may or may not take off.

Essentially many of the recent campaigns have become less about funding a project and rewarding backers and more about doing a hyped up presale for something you haven't made yet. 

SIDENOTE: I'm still pissed I didn't get in on the Zombicide Kickstarter and the limited editon Tentacle Bento models look cool (dunno about the game ... but).  But I can't wait for Relic Knights and Evil Baby Orphange to get released. 

Highest Bidder Wins

I'm still cleaning house. At some point you realize that you own to much stuff. Looking for space in my basement gaming room I've realized I don't have enough room. I own a ton of Black Library and Magic the Gathering novels the odds that I'm ever going to read them again is pretty slim. Sure there are a few books and series that I really liked and may re-read but the rest were good for a single read through and now just take up space. 

I also own a ridiculous amount of models many of which I haven't used in years. You see I have a problem. Much like many gamers I'm drawn to the new shiny thing. Which means I own lots of stuff that was an impulse purchase or a huge grand project that I lost interest in before it finished. Why I own a Dark Eldar codex and several other codexes for armies I've never had an interest in playing is beyond me. I suppose its an obsessive compulsive tendancy to own everything for what my current interest is. 

I've come to terms with the fact that once you take home any game related item it loses half of its value on the secondary market. As painful of a realization as that is, it's just a fact of life. Having listed a completely painted beautiful army on bartertown and received "offers" for less than 50% of the retail is depressing. Obviously I've picked a bad time to try and sell stuff. After GenCon nobody has the disposable income to make a huge purchase. I'm ok with that.

So in an effort to clean out some stuff and make room for new projects I've decided to go back to ebay. I really dislike selling stuff there but honestly it's the truest measure of the going rate for games and collectibles I know of. That said check out the button to the left and see what kind of deal you can get on random hobby stuff.

Ghetto Fabulous - Homemade Relic Knights Proxies

Relic Knights – The kickstarter seems to have really taken off and I'm looking forward to seeing this game produced. However May 2013 is a long time to wait. Luckily Sodapop has release the "preliminary" quickstart rules and cards on their site.

With a bit of work I've been able to create a 2D version of the game using these rules so I can try it out and hopefully get other people in my area interested in the game as well. Typically when I play test or proxy I find mini's that look similar and use them to represent other models. With Relic Knights there are a ton on large base models that aren't easily proxied with existing stuff I own.

To solve this problem I took the model card and printed them on label paper which I mounted to some heavy card and cut out a circle equal to the base size of the model. Essentially I created pogs for the starter box models plus a few extra for the doctrine as their starter box seems to be points light at the moment. 

Continuing with the label paper I printed the Esper deck on the same 8.5"x11" label paper and stuck them to some playing cards. You can ususally find some decent quality cards at a dollar store. I cut them out and stuck them to the playing cards. Odds are they won't hold up for long unless I sleeve them but at the moment they shuffle fine.

I printed the models stat cards on regular paper and put them in some penny sleeves. I imagine when the real game comes out top loaders will be preferred and they need two different sizes standard and the 3.5"x5", but for now the penny sleeves work just fine.

I of course plan on building a themed table for this but given the "models" I'll be using are flat pogs, I decided to create some 2D versions of the crystal structures that appear in the demo games I've seen. Indicating the size of them and cutting it out of heavyweight paper will serve it's purpose while I wait for the full game to come out.